Got back yesterday from two days spent in Eloui, a Maasai village up on this mountainside near Kenya. Mindbogglingly beautiful, and a way of life at once intimidatingly difficult and alluring. You get used to sights like four-year-olds industriously washing remnants of cow blood out of tin cups with dirt and dung so they can drink some tea. The second night I slept in the Orpul, which is a sort of Maasai boy's club-cum-field hospital. Ate all sorts of raw goat parts, drank tea made of various roots mixed with goat meat and fat, and slept on a bower of green branches under the stars, which is not as comfortable as you might think. Was entranced by all of it, but sure was ready for a shower, a nap and a beer, in that order, when I got back to Arusha.